JOURNAL 2000 | North Craven Heritage Trust |
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A hundred years ago, the Rev G H Brown was the minister of Zion Congregational Church, Settle. He
was a keen walker and collected a great knowledge of the district, publishing several booklets of local interest,
such as ‘The Tourist at Settle’, (a forty page book with map, price 1d)and ‘On Foot Round Settle’ containing
twelve walks and history notes. These contained no easy summer evening walks, but were full days
outings like the Malham walks… ‘Stockdale, the Cove, Gordale, the Tarn, return via Cowside and
Langcliffe’, or ‘Stockdale, Ryeloaf (1749), Airton, return via High-side (1272)’. These were what Rev Brown
called a walk. After morning service in Settle his own Sunday afternoon walk was a brisk one to Tosside to
take the afternoon praise, returning to take the evening worship at Settle. Of course a hundred years ago
people accepted the fact that walking was the only way to get to places if you did not have a horse.
During the period before Rev Brown was minister
the pulpit of the Congregational Church was filled by
students from the college at Idle. They walked forty
miles on Saturday, and unless they got a lift on a coal
cart going to the canal at Gargrave, it was a forty mile
return walk on Monday.
Henry Lea Twistleton, a great friend of Rev
Brown, at one time worked in a bank in Wetherby.
There was a very able preacher in York and often, for
a Sunday service, Twistleton did a twenty two mile
walk to hear him; but some weekends he walked
home to Winskill via Grassington a forty mile walk.
After moving from Wetherby he worked in a mill
office at Bentham, and would walk to an evening
meeting at Settle or Langcliffe.
Rev G H Brown had a good walking friend in Mr
Mat Graham of Langcliffe. It was he who one morning
said ‘It is a good day for a walk’, and off he went
not returning until evening. He had walked to
Catterick, Fountains Fell, Penyghent and back to
Langcliffe… he was in his eighties.
A regular early morning outing for Rev Brown
was to the Ebbing and Flowing well below
Giggleswick Scar. Over a long period he recorded
both weather and the function of the well, and collected
information from those who had a explanation to
offer. He also collected many stories, like the one of
the thirsty man on a hot day who came to this well of
cool clear spring water, put his face into it and took a
long drink. At the same time, before his eyes, he saw
the water level drop. He left in a hurry not knowing
what would happen to his own system. Rev G H
Brown published a booklet on ‘The Giggleswick
Well’. which ran to two editions. The first was priced
at 1d and ran to 20 pages and the second edition was
priced at 2d and ran to 32 pages.
Another booklet produced at this time was
‘Underground Streams’ (23 pages at 1d). The author
did not claim to take part in the experiments but
records details. In June 1900 a ton of salt was put
down Gaping Ghyll, which took ten days to be detected
at Clapham Beck Head, We are told of an experiment
around Ingleborough of putting dye into an
underground stream in Chapel-le-Dale. That day all
outlets from underground were checked without any
colour appearing. The party had B-&-B in Ingleton
and next morning the hostess with some surprise
showed them the (dyed) colour of water from the tap.
The test of a ton of salt was used at Malham Tarn
water sink, and ammonia in the water by the Smelt
Mill, with the results checked at Aire Head and the
Cove. The bulk of the treated water surfaced at Aire
Head and only a little of it at the Cove, an hour later.
The excavation of Victoria Cave was still in
progress under the direction of Prof Boyd-Dawkins
and Mr Tiddeman, when Rev Brown came to Settle in
1873. On several days each week he would walk up to
the cave with Mr Jackson. This provided him with a
wealth of first-hand knowledge, from which he produced
a pamphlet, and also lectured to local history
societies. Brown’s comment made at that time was
there should have been a museum at Settle for all the
finds to be together. As it was, it went variously to
London, Leeds, Giggleswick School or private collectors.
The question of a museum in Settle seems to be
one long sad story. Good advice was given by Rev
Brown to tourists intending to explore a cave, ‘Do not
go in your best black suit, but equip oneself with an
old greatcoat and take lots of candles and matches.’
One can build up something of a picture of the
area at the end of the nineteenth century. Rev Brown
lived at the top of Belle Hill and on his walk into
Settle the only buildings were the few cottages at
Bridge End and some navvies huts by the embankment
of the line, which at that time went as far as
Batty Moss, as the viaduct was still under construction.
‘Mr Ashwell took me on his engine for a ride up
the line as far as the engine could go.’ Batty Moss
Viaduct was then well on towards completion. ‘I never
felt more nervous than when I stood on that unfinished
viaduct. Probably there was not much wind but
it seemed as if there was enough to carry one clean
away, and the fear of being blown off made me cling
tenaciously to the strong arm of a navvy who happened
to be near.’
At the time of building the railway, when the population
was almost doubled, great temperance meetings
were held. The Christmas day meeting filled the
Victoria Hall, and there would be perhaps ten speakers
on the platform. One who was always in great
demand specialised in a story about Samson, which
went like this…
‘Israelites git him in tut army, he ed nowt but a
old bone, an what ye think? He kilt 1000 Philistines
single handed! An Samson supped nowt but water.’
Bank Holiday outings were often by wagonette
and on one such, at great length, Rev Brown gave the
history of Bolton Abbey and Strid Woods. So the
choir sung all the way there and back and had a history
lesson for good measure. Another good Bank
Holiday was a picnic at Malham. A horse and cart carried
the cups and plates packed in straw (for the roads
were very rough), firewood, kettle and teapots, along
with all the sandwich baskets. Young and old joined
in, thirty or more on such outings, and a good time
was had by all. Today it can be New York and back by
Concorde for a day trip.
Weddings may be all in a day’s work for a minister
but the ones that are different find a place in the
story book, like the 8 o’clock wedding one December
morning. A woman called out to her neighbour,
‘There’s gan tu be a wedding bi gas leet.’ Another
occasion is recorded when, off the tops, came the
bridegroom with his bride in a milk float. He drove
up to the chapel gates, looking for someone to hold
his horse, but seeing the chapel keeper put up a finger
hailed him and said, ‘Come down and tak mi woman
in,’ and so he did, also acted as Best Man. As they
departed the question was asked, ‘Where are you
going on honeymoon?’ They were going back to
milk.
Such was the life in the Dales as recorded by a
Congregationalist Minister of one hundred years ago.
Jim Nelson is a member of the
Congregational History Circle.
Other books by Rev G H Brown:
The Clapham Cave with 18 photographs
by the Author, 28 pages @ 2d
each
On the Craven Fault, 24 pages @ 2d
each
Reminiscences at Settle, 20 pages @
1d each
Richard Frankland, 26 pages @ 2d
each
Over the Oldest Ground in Britain,
30 pages @ 2d each. (In this Rev
Brown refers to Moughton which was
stated to be older than either
Penyghent or Ingleborough: an old
churchman of Calvinistic tendencies
said, ‘Rev Brown’s book was rubbish,
they war all med in’t same week.’)
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