Summer Outing : Peel / pele towers of the Penrith area — 6 June 2006

What a marvellous summer day we had for a most informative and interesting excursion. A one-handed clock, sheep bones to hold roofing slates, Roman connections, ancient roof structures, enigmatic stone bears (lions?), Viking cross shafts, a chained Bible, an ancient silver chalice, Lady Anne Clifford’s lock and much more to wonder at. A large party came together at Clifton and the scene was set by David. His detailed notes are the basis of the following report. The excursion was aimed at visiting a very small representative sample of peel towers in various states of completion and occupancy not open to the general public.

Background

The basic character of the peel tower remained unchanged until well into the 16th century and, in a few instances, until into the 17th. They are normally oblong with the long axis very often aligned east-west and they either had two or three stories including a basement which in many cases was vaulted. Wall thicknesses vary from 3.5 to 6 feet - and are as much as 10 feet at Howgill Castle - and the overall dimensions of the towers vary, presumably according to the wishes, needs and wealth of their owners. As times became more settled, and people began to seek greater comfort and privacy, a hall - or solar - was added on to the original tower, rather less cramped, dank and draughty than the tower. In many cases the 16th century saw further additional building often arranged around a courtyard - or barmkin - as can be seen par excellence at Wharton Hall south of Kirkby Stephen.

Clifton Hall

The three-storey tower is a fine example of a well-preserved peel tower without modern additions. The first hall on this site was built sometime after 1400 by either Eleanor de Engaine or her son, though in earlier times the manor had been held by the all-powerful Musgrave clan. The church stands on what may well be their motte. Eleanor married into the equally powerful de Wybergh family of St.Bees (plaque in Clifton Church) and they lived at Clifton until they fell on hard times during the Civil War and were forced by circumstance to mortgage many of their lands and property, though the family did not actually sell the hall until the 19th century when the Lowthers bought it and allowed it to fall into decay.

The exact date of the hall’s construction is unknown: Curwen talks about a rebuilding around 1475 but other sources give around 1500 for the structure we see now. There is clear evidence on the ground and in the walls of alterations to what was once a considerable complex. The tower measures 33.5 by 26.5 feet with a height of 37 feet and walls 3 feet thick, which latter point suggests a rather late date for its erection.

The nearby farm has a horse gin and built into the wall is, astonishingly, a large Roman tablet referring to the 6th Legion and commemorating a soldier from Libya (text from Collingwood). Permission is required to use the farm track.

Yanwath Hall

The peel tower was built in 1322 so it is an early example, and it stands an impressive 55 feet high with a vaulted basement and walls 6 feet thick, but pierced with windows. The first floor’s interior dates from the 16th century and has a fine fireplace and plasterwork. A narrow spiral stair leads up to the roof space and the impressive oak roof timbers and finally to the rooftop with an unusual bird’s eye view of the complex. The stone slates are held with sheep-bone pins rather than the usual oak ones. The hall and adjacent range were later additions put up in 1375, with the frontage dating from then, so it is still rather early, though the courtyard frontage is 15th century. Further additions were made in 1520 when the tower received some modernisation. The east range is also 15th century on the inside and north wall but 16th and 17th on the outer facing. The north range is contemporary with this. One can see, in the (now) farm range, the original grand entrance to the courtyard through the barmkin. In the house part there is a room with an open fireplace, a smoke room above, and on the wall a one-handed clock with no operating mechanism behind the painted surround.

The antiquary Thomas Machell, in the 17th century, wrote of Yanwath:

It “hath a delicate prospect when you are at it, and hath the grace of a little castle when you depart from it.”

We are indebted to Mr and Mrs David Altham for granting us access and spending time showing us the treasures of this delightful property.

Dacre Castle and Church

We were fortunate to have the church warden tell us in detail about the Church of St Andrew, Dacre. The church contains many unusual features. Part is owned by the PCC and part by the Hasell family of the Dalemain estate. Edward Hasell was a steward to Lady Anne Clifford and as was her wont, Anne gave the church a lock with the key still with it (there is also one at Dalemain). She also gave a silver communion cup in 1583 (now in the Carlisle treasury). There is a chained Bible dated 1617. But further surprises stand outside the church - four stone bears at the corners of a large rectangle. But they may be lions! They have a pagan (or ‘early church’) look about them and are somewhat reminiscent of the Corbridge Lion from the Roman Corstopitum Station on Hadrian’s Wall.

Brougham Hall

It was for many centuries the seat of the Brougham family, later to be Lords Brougham, though it had once belonged to Lady Anne Clifford’s Steward, James Bird, who made himself very unpopular with the folk hereabouts by clearing away the existing village to create a landscaped park. The site of the medieval hall is under the carriage house. Some of the buildings are Tudor in date or later but the peel tower (in ruins) is surely one of the tiniest ever built, measuring as it does a mere 21.5 feet square. It was also one of the latest to be built. Archaeological evidence seems to suggest a construction date around 1600 just before the need for defensive structures faded away.

The nearby chapel has Saxon-Norman origins though it was rebuilt by Lady Anne and still contains her furnishings. Some of us were lucky enough to effect entrance after official closing time and had a personal guided tour by one of the officials. We were struck by the contents and unusual arrangement of the chapel.

After refreshments we made our ways home having experienced most enjoyable visits thanks to the historical research made by David Johnson over some years into this corner of England.

References

• 1. J.W.Curwen. 1913. The castles and fortified towers of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire north-of-the-sands.
• 2. R.Hugill. 1977. Castles of Cumberland and Westmorland.
• 3. W.Hutchinson. 1794-97. The history of the County of Cumberland.
• 4. J.Nicolson and R.Burn. 1777. The history and antiquities of the Counties of Westmorland and Cumberland.
• 5. E.H.A.Stretton. 1994. Dacre Castle.
• 6. M.W.Taylor. 1892. The old manorial halls of Cumberland and Westmorland.
• 7. W.Whelan. 1860. The history & topography of the Counties of Cumberland & Westmorland